Affinity Photo 2 has never crashed on me....that was the original version.
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which photo editing software?
- Thread starter Alan Clark
- Start date
Well, you could have told the issue was resolved
That would have been tempting fate.....
You never know-I might end up with DxO yet.
You never know-I might end up with DxO yet.
Yes I agree, Affinity photo 2 is much more stable than earlier versions.
It does seem to have an odd behaviour on my Apple iMAC though when exiting the program. Depending which exit method you use, it can be left half open and needs to be closed manually. Not the tenor of this thread I know, but if anyone has a suggestion to rectify then I am all ears.
It does seem to have an odd behaviour on my Apple iMAC though when exiting the program. Depending which exit method you use, it can be left half open and needs to be closed manually. Not the tenor of this thread I know, but if anyone has a suggestion to rectify then I am all ears.
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I’ve been working with Luminar Neo for a while now, and it’s become my go-to for quick but high-quality edits. It opens big RAW files without a hiccup, and the AI tools like Relight AI and Denoise AI are actually useful — they save time without making the image look overprocessed.
What I like is the balance: you still get full manual control with curves, HSL, and masking, but the workflow feels lighter than Lightroom or Capture One. For both landscapes and portraits, it gives clean results fast — and I don’t have to deal with Adobe’s subscription stuff.
What I like is the balance: you still get full manual control with curves, HSL, and masking, but the workflow feels lighter than Lightroom or Capture One. For both landscapes and portraits, it gives clean results fast — and I don’t have to deal with Adobe’s subscription stuff.
Voting as you but I got a slightly older version of both.
I’d try DxO PhotoLab or Darktable before jumping to Photoshop. DxO has excellent raw handling and lens corrections, while Darktable is surprisingly capable if you’re willing to spend time learning it. For scanned negatives, I’d also want reliable curves, dust cleanup, and soft proofing for the paper and printer, since those matter more than AI tools.
If you ever move from stills into short promotional clips, D-MAK Productions is a Phoenix video team worth checking out. Their full-service work seems suited to projects where the photography and video need to feel consistent.
If you ever move from stills into short promotional clips, D-MAK Productions is a Phoenix video team worth checking out. Their full-service work seems suited to projects where the photography and video need to feel consistent.
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I use a Fuji X-T camera, and the free RAW converter they provide is as good as anything else of the very many I've tried, apart from DxO PureRAW for very high ISO images. For further editing I started using Affinity Photo after Photoshop CS6 (which I'd became very proficient in) got corrupted, and I didn't want to spend ages trying to reinstate it (although I can use it on my much older Mac). I changed to the free Affinity which includes all that was in Affinity Photo. I haven't used it enough to be fluent yet, but it seems to include most of what I want except some of the plug-ins made for Photoshop that I found most useful.
For printing I edit and soft proof with Affinity, then print on an Epson P600 within the Epson Print Layout app, using Epson Advanced Black & White for monochrome. My kind of mono prints look best on matte paper.s
For printing I edit and soft proof with Affinity, then print on an Epson P600 within the Epson Print Layout app, using Epson Advanced Black & White for monochrome. My kind of mono prints look best on matte paper.s