Mamiya C330

Having done a repair something like this before (on a bigger scale) it may be possible to do something similar on this lever, if that is what it is.

The broken/snapped piece will have to be gently bent back into alignment. (Can you remove it? That would make it far easier). Firstly, to bend the broken side back into shape, place the strip in a vice and grip the strip on each edge and G-e-n-t-l-y tighten the vice a bit at a time. This has more control of the reshaping than doing it with your fingers or pliers. Then as you suggest, silver solder the broken ends together so that it retains the correct shape. If there is enough clearance on the side of the piece we are looking at, clamp a thin strip of brass or copper to the repaired strip. A slim piece cut from 15mm copper water piping will be good enough.

Cover the site with a good acidic flux and solder the reinforcing strip to the repaired section. Use plumbers solder because it is stronger than electrical solder, but still melts at a lower temperature than silver solder, so the first part of the repair wont be compromised. If you use an acid flux in wax form as used by plumbers mare sure it is cleaned off afterwards because it remains corrosive. A good scrub with an old toothbrush and water containing Bicarbonate of Soda will work.
 
LOL, don't worry, people get even more confused when they ask about my not quite Scottish accent. When I tell them Newcastle I tend to get a raised eyebrow, until I tell them Newcastle, South Africa :)
 
John King said:
Having done a repair something like this before (on a bigger scale) it may be possible to do something similar on this lever, if that is what it is.

The broken/snapped piece will have to be gently bent back into alignment. (Can you remove it? That would make it far easier). Firstly, to bend the broken side back into shape, place the strip in a vice and grip the strip on each edge and G-e-n-t-l-y tighten the vice a bit at a time. This has more control of the reshaping than doing it with your fingers or pliers. Then as you suggest, silver solder the broken ends together so that it retains the correct shape. If there is enough clearance on the side of the piece we are looking at, clamp a thin strip of brass or copper to the repaired strip. A slim piece cut from 15mm copper water piping will be good enough.

Cover the site with a good acidic flux and solder the reinforcing strip to the repaired section. Use plumbers solder because it is stronger than electrical solder, but still melts at a lower temperature than silver solder, so the first part of the repair wont be compromised. If you use an acid flux in wax form as used by plumbers mare sure it is cleaned off afterwards because it remains corrosive. A good scrub with an old toothbrush and water containing Bicarbonate of Soda will work.
Click to expand...

I'm having a look at removing it just now but there are quite a few parts to come off according to the exploded diagrams that Keith provided.
I have already squeased the broken parts back together and everything is working fine for now. It looks like most of the pressure is being exerted on the up-stroke of the cam so it might hold like this for quite a while. I have some brass shim stock in the shed and there is plenty of clearance to add a strengthening plate. And a +1 on the flux, I've worked in refrigeration and my old boss always used to kick my backside if I didn't wash the flux off afterwards, it's amazing how quickly it starts corroding the pipework if left on!!!
I also now think I can remember how it happened. I was used to using the Yashicamat where you wound forward, then back. The C330 only goes one way and I seem to remember trying to force it back, I haven't touched it for maybe 15 years so my memory is a little hazey
 
dazdmc said:
...... I also now think I can remember how it happened. I was used to using the Yashicamat where you wound forward, then back. The C330 only goes one way and I seem to remember trying to force it back, I haven't touched it for maybe 15 years so my memory is a little hazey
Click to expand...
Thats enough to make ones eyes water! :oops::oops:

I know from experience that getting that cam follower out is a right PITA, it's the pin on the vertical rack that is the big problem. If it were a screw like t'other end it would be a few minutes work provided you didn't disturb the timing gears - and therein lies another potential problem if you're not careful.

I wonder if you could fold some shimstock over the follower (in the same shape) to reinforce it, with a clearance cutout for the pin? However, if you can find a genuine repairer to fix it then it would be worth it as these cameras are in big demand if they are in good nick.
 
I'll have nother look and think on your suggestion Keith thank you, I don't really want to take the part out to fix it, it looks a bit of a nightmare as you suggest but I think I might have to, can't use a micro torch in that small space as too much risk of damaging other parts. I think I might try lead soldering a strengthening plate to it, at least that way I can do it in place with a soldering iron. To be honest it's a pretty beat up example, it was used profesionaly, in a hospital I belive. Monetary value won't be high but in any case I'd rather get it working to use it than to sell it, or at least pass it onto a film enthusiast who could do it justice.
 
Would you believe I've actually managed to track down an original replacement from Bill Rogers in the USA!!! $30 including shipping , yee f"'C$!ng ha!!! :cool:
 
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