Introduction

Good Evening,

New member, but not a new photographer. I have thousands of mono negatives from the 90s but nothing new of note since I picked up a D70 in the early 2000s.

So I need to re-learn mono, as really I have not been happy with anything I have done digitally in black and white, the tones never seem rich enough. Standby for stupid questions.
Jason, A completely different scene from where I live, so a welcome change. Overall the image is quite pleasing, the sky is a little bland, however I can live with that maybe a subtle vignette could help a little. The foreground could do with a little tonal separation to help with the definition. I noticed the dwelling is leaning a little to the left, so a little levelling is required, not unless that is how it sits in the landscape...
 
By right I meant as I remembered and visualised the combination of the colour and luminance .
Which means it could be down to faulty memory ;):p
It was the precise balance of the two that made me take the picture so being able to reproduce it realistically was essential: only the two mentioned managed it whereas the others made it look forced or false.

After all the high accolades I had seen for DXO it was one I gave a good workout but was left dissatisfied

I tried equally hard to get Lightroom to do it so DXO is no worse than Lightroom in that regard. I spent quite some time on this. It really was a surprise that DPP RAWPower came out top.
On my machine, I have ACR in PS CS3, Affinity Photo, Apple Preview, Capture One, DxO PhotoLab, FastRawViewer, Luminar 3, Nikon Capture NX-D, Nikon View NX-i, and On1 Photo RAW 2018. All of them give a somewhat different rendition of a RAW image, in terms of colour, contrast and clarity and this is down to the rendering engine in each software. My thought is that RAWPower's rendition just happens to coincide with what you feel is correct for your taste.

When I scan LF transparencies, I have a test target for each film type and need to apply (in PS) the ICC profile that I created with the appropriate target, in order to get to a "neutral" rendition that ignores the film base tint, etc.

You may have profiled your screen and printer but do you have camera profiles (DCP)? Basically, you need a Macbeth colour target and one of various apps that are available to create a DCP profile, which can then be applied to the image, to correct for differences in the rendition engines. DxO FilmPack not only allows you to "fake" various films, it also allows you to choose both ICC and DCP profiles to your images.

There is an excellent thread, and one post in particular, in the DxO forums on the subject
 
I too have other programs which I didn’t bother to list as they are not in the running. Other than those Yes I have also Macbeth.

Of course I want the results as per MY memory and visualisation. My choice is not about technical one-upmanship, it is about the program not frustrating me.
 
I too have other programs which I didn’t bother to list as they are not in the running. Other than those Yes I have also Macbeth.

Of course I want the results as per MY memory and visualisation. My choice is not about technical one-upmanship, it is about the program not frustrating me.
My apologies if you thought I was in any way "boasting"; I only have all those apps on my machine because I teach at our local photo club and need to know about what our members are using or might use. The truth is that I only normally use DxO and, occasionally, PS. I know I really should get more into Affinity Photo for retouching work when I finally bite the bullet and upgrade macOS to Mojave.

Personally speaking, I keep my camera on dead flat/neutral/unsharpened/5600°K to ensure that the jpeg rendition on the back doesn't fool me into thinking I've got a good shot; so it would be a very rare occasion if I find an image that doesn't need some tweaking, colour-wise.

Of course, as they say, YMMV :)
 
My apologies if you thought I was in any way "boasting"; I only have all those apps on my machine because I teach at our local photo club and need to know about what our members are using or might use. The truth is that I only normally use DxO and, occasionally, PS. I know I really should get more into Affinity Photo for retouching work when I finally bite the bullet and upgrade macOS to Mojave.

Personally speaking, I keep my camera on dead flat/neutral/unsharpened/5600°K to ensure that the jpeg rendition on the back doesn't fool me into thinking I've got a good shot; so it would be a very rare occasion if I find an image that doesn't need some tweaking, colour-wise.

Of course, as they say, YMMV :)
I keep the jpg on back to mono, minus contrast, yellow filter. I only use it to visualise composition

I’m pretty experienced with reading whether the histo will give me the info I need in the RAW files.

I always post process

The point of my mentioning the benefits of RAWPower are that as the OP is an ex. Aperture user, he may appreciate that the same guys built raw power. And that I have been impressed with its neutral colour rendition
 
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