Advice Needed: Macro Photography

stevenz

stevenz

Well-Known Member
Registered
Happy New Year, folks. wishing you all a healthy, prosperous 2020.

I was thinking of trying my hand at macro photography - not necessarily right now - but later in the spring when the flowers bloom. But instead of purchasing an EF 100MM F2.8 USM 1:1 MACRO lens @ about $1200 CAD, I'm leaning towards purchasing a set of extension tubes. I have heard that extension tubes are equally effective for macro photography. Has anybody on the forum ever used them? If so, can you tell me how they work for macro?
 
stevenz said:
Happy New Year, folks. wishing you all a healthy, prosperous 2020.

I was thinking of trying my hand at macro photography - not necessarily right now - but later in the spring when the flowers bloom. But instead of purchasing an EF 100MM F2.8 USM 1:1 MACRO lens @ about $1200 CAD, I'm leaning towards purchasing a set of extension tubes. I have heard that extension tubes are equally effective for macro photography. Has anybody on the forum ever used them? If so, can you tell me how they work for macro?
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I have and what I found is:
-depth of field is crazy narrow
-really hard to get any depth of field with shutter speed high enough (without flash)
-Flowers move too much

they work best when using a tripod and a static subject
 
Digital Finger said:
I have and what I found is:
-depth of field is crazy narrow
-really hard to get any depth of field with shutter speed high enough (without flash)
-Flowers move too much

they work best when using a tripod and a static subject
Click to expand...
Thanks, Simon. What make of ext. tubes have you used? Canon? I hear some brands offer better results than others.
 
stevenz said:
Thanks, Simon. What make of ext. tubes have you used? Canon? I hear some brands offer better results than others.
Click to expand...
Canon. I'd heard Kenko are not as well made so run the risk of coming loose. It's just a tube so the results will be the same whatever make you get
 
I have Nikon fit Kenko tubes and haven't suffered loosening issues but do agree with Simon regarding depth of field. I used them long enough to realise I needed a dedicated macro lens.
Beware too shorter focal length if you go down the lens route as you will find lighting issues with the short front element to subject distance. I bought a 150mm Sigma which I find ideal on both APS-c and FF.
 
Stevens, try renting a lens, I have an older sigma 100mm 2.8 lens which is really cheap to buy these days
 
If you don't like tripods for macro then there are some new macro lenses with image stabilisation e.g.g the fuji 80mm
 
Came across this recently that n
might bbeof interest.

Looks a low cost method too

fstoppers.com

How to Use Any Lens for Macro Photography | Fstoppers

The results from macro photography, when well done, can be spectacular as a dazzling, miniature world comes to life. Check out this great video to learn how to use any lens to get started with macro photography immediately.
fstoppers.com fstoppers.com
 
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I have had the sigma and Canon 100mm macro lens, no real difference In quality, you really need to use flash to get required of D O field, I used to hold the camera with a flash mounted on the camera and bounced the light on the subject, that was photographing insects, no tripod
 
Martin Henson said:
I have had the sigma and Canon 100mm macro lens, no real difference In quality, you really need to use flash to get required of D O field, I used to hold the camera with a flash mounted on the camera and bounced the light on the subject, that was photographing insects, no tripod
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indeed flash gets rid of the need for a tripehound
 
Steven, while this guy uses Olympus gear his techniques may be of some help to you.
robinwong.blogspot.com

Insect Macro Photography

Malaysian photographer, Micro Four Thirds enthusiast, camera reviews, photography, photography tips, shutter therapy, street photography
robinwong.blogspot.com robinwong.blogspot.com
 
Yes, I would guess that if you use flash for a single shot then camera shake may be irrelevant.

? Maybe the bigger issue is how you get a reasonable depth of field.

Somewhere on t'internet I have seen various discussions on manual re-focussing v some kind of (fairly expensive) carriage device that allows you to move the camera forward ?1 mm at a time.

You then need to use some kind of software to create the final, blended image.

I think Photoshop has done kind of button that does this automatically. But, again, I think there is bespoke software you can buy.

I have pondered doing macro but not (yet) got around to having a go.

As with my more general approach to life my intention would be to start with the cheapest approach that looks as if it will work and go from there.

In this case that is perhaps:

- extension tubes/conversion ring or both
- manual re-focussing
- Photoshop

But I will be very interested to see which route you choose and how you get on

More generally .....

... Whilst I have seen some beautiful (which to some might be horrible) macro shots of insects (eg) I don't recall seeing any 'fine art' macro, let alone any B&W.

?maybe an opportunity there for someone on here?

(If you haven't already worked it out ... I am in my favourite local pub having a quiet pint - or two )
 
I've been experimenting with natual light. I think the flash might over exposed the image since my lens is so close to the subject.
 
I dint think it will, Steven, if you do it right, you need to bounce the flash onto the subject, let your camera sort out the exposure, intensity is flash to subject distance
 
stevenz said:
I've been experimenting with natual light. I think the flash might over exposed the image since my lens is so close to the subject.
Click to expand...

If your doing a still life subject indoors and using on-camera flash, then set your flash to TTL, swivel the flash head over your shoulder pointing up onto the ceiling ( preferably a white one ) and then you will create a nice large soft box.
 
Ian Barber said:
If your doing a still life subject indoors and using on-camera flash, then set your flash to TTL, swivel the flash head over your shoulder pointing up onto the ceiling ( preferably a white one ) and then you will create a nice large soft box.
Click to expand...
Presently, I don't have a reliable on camera flash so I'm using natural window light and a tripod but I'm thinking of buying some cheap LED battery operated desk lights to lighten my subjects.
 
 
 
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